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Samantha Starr Chardonnay 2007

posted on 7 March 2009 by jeff

sam-starr-chardIt disturbs me that my first wine review on the new site is of a California chardonnay, but it’s what I’ve got in my mouth, so I am compelled to make note of it.

I’m drinking the 2007 Samantha Starr chardonnay, from the Monterey AOC.  Samantha Starr is associated with the Monterey super-house, Talbott.  Much like Talbott, the Sam Starr label deals largely in Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.  At $16.99 it’s not necessarily budget chardonnay, but the comparative value is great.  Moreover, the chard is the house pour at the Taj, and so for a relatively modest investment, one can take a little bit of hotel luxury home with them.

In the glass the wine is a beautifully clear, pale gold.  The nose suggests ripe, creamy pear and, with a bit of time in the glass, a pleasant, vanilla-scented toastiness.

Though it offers a largely citric first pitch, the coolness of Monterey definitely exerts itself later in the count with notes of soft pear and a hint of green bananas.  The finish is clean, if a bit sharp, which suggests that some of this fruit is sourced in, or around Talbott’s super-dry, Sleepy Hollow vineyard.

I like this wine.  It tastes like chardonnay.  For the money it offers an alternative to the ubiquitously oppressive weight of pineapple and vanilla ridden swill chardonnay, (I’m talking to you Kendall-Jackson, and you La Crema and. . . oh forget it, you all suck).  The dry, bay-cooled climate of Monterey offers an interesting venue for chard, and this bottle has suggested as much while resisting the urge to manhandle the natural disposition of the grape.

J.

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