posted on 13 June 2009 by jeff
The island of Limnos is a place that folks rarely think of when they make their way to their neighborhood wine shop. That’s not to say that it doesn’t have plenty of wine-making cred. The island, and it’s wines, are present in the Iliad: a welcome addition, it is said, to the cups of the Argives. With cooler temperatures than mainland Greece and plenty of strong prevailing winds, Limnos is an excellent place to raise expressive, aromatic, Moscatel, (aka Muscat of Alexandria).
Though Limnos has a reputation for making dry wines from it’s Moscatel, a result of the cooler temperatures, the island’s sweet wines are equally compelling. The entry-level dessert wine from Limnos Wines, located in the capital of Myrina, is an outstanding introduction to the island’s wines.
In the glass the wine is a lambent, honeyed-orange. Aromas of thyme, honey, and green Darjeeling abound. The palate leads with earthy tones of spiced-honey and herbed-tea, though it finishes with a surprisingly refreshing hint of honeydew melon.
I really love this wine. On top of being flat-out delicious, it is impressively complex given it’s $15.99 price tag. Whether you’re hankering for something sweet, or looking to try something Greek, this wine is a fantastic way to spend an evening. Pair it with some loukamathes and you’ll have everything you need to feel as though you been transported to the Greek isles, if only for an evening.
J.
Tags: dessert wine, greece, limnos, limnos wines, moscatel, muscat de limnos, muscat of alexandria, night train
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posted on 5 June 2009 by jeff
Gundlach Bundschu (G-B) is old. Don’t get me wrong: it isn’t old like, say, Haut-Brion, but it’s about as old as it gets on this side of the pond. Purchased in the 1850’s, the family’s Rhinefarm property has been churning out pretty solid fruit ever since. Known for it’s Bordeaux varietals, G-B nevertheless offers a surprisingly diverse array of other varietals, including the ever-present pinot noir.
Located at the foot of Arrowhead mountain, the Rhinefarm vineyard offers cool temperatures and an abundance of loamy, clay soil: a solid foundation for pinot noir. In the glass the wine has an earthy, garnet hue. Warm, ripe, red fruit aromas are balanced by a leafy earthiness. The relatively cool temperatures of the Rhinefarm, however, allow for a much more evenly balanced profile than the weighty juiciness of the nose suggests. A slightly sour palate of bright raspberry is offset against a delicately-expressed woodiness. Solidly structured and possessed of a driving acidity, this is the rare California pinot that doesn’t fall flat on it’s face when paired with a meal.
At $35, this wine doesn’t come super-cheap. That being said, it actually offers a pretty fair value when viewed against the plethora of over-priced, post-Sideways pinots. Moreover, the guys from G-B have always been pretty cool. The Sonoma Valley stalwarts once hijacked Richard Branson’s bus while he was touring Napa wineries. That bit of awesomeness is worth the price of admission all on its own.
J.
Tags: California, Gundlach Bundschu, pinot noir, rhinefarm, richard branson, sonoma valley
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posted on 19 May 2009 by jeff
American Syrah is not an easy wine-category to sell these days. Many Americans are confused about what exactly Syrah is. They’ve heard it’s the same grape as is used in Aussie Shiraz, but it doesn’t taste like the 90-some-odd point blueberry milkshakes they’ve had foisted upon them by some jamoke from Kappy’s. Furthermore, Californian Syrah runs the gamut from powerful and aromatic Rhone-style wines, to emulations of the melted-jam wines so favored by suburban, banker types.
California’s inability to precisely define it’s feelings regarding Syrah is no reason, however, to abandon the varietal. There are plenty of great Syrah’s to be had for just about any price. At around $15, the Shannon Ridge Winery’s take on the southern french grape is an absolute steal.
Grown in Lake County, the Shannon Ridge vines benefit from steeply sloped vineyards and steady, cooling, winds off of Clear Lake. The wine pours an intense garnet-red, a bit reminiscent of bottlings from the Northern Rhone. This is echoed by a hint of bacon fat in the nose, but aromas of chocolate and black fruit definitely suggest the wine’s California roots. The wine has a densely-thatched palate of blackberry and cocoa coupled with a warm undertone of caramelized sugar. Straightforward tannins and a bright, fresh-faced acidity make this a killer red for the summer time. I recommend acquiring some Redbones and finding a spot to watch the sun go down.
J.
Tags: blueberry milkshakes, California, jamoke, kappy's, lake county, shannon ridge, shiraz, syrah
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posted on 10 May 2009 by jeff
At first glance, the wines of Vinedos de Ithaca (VdI) seem out of place. Though they’re Spanish in origin, the labels and names of the wines carry a Greek theme. The winery’s flagship line is named for clever Odysseus, and VdI’s dessert wine for Odysseus’ faithful wife Penelope. The vineyard’s younger vines are turned into Akyles, the winery’s fresh, vibrant counterpart to the darkly powerful Odysseus.
Akyles pours a dark, extracted purple: nearly black. It’s full of bright, punguent aromas of blackberries and redcurrants. The palate leads with juicy berry-fruit notes, but ultimately suggests the sharp red fruits one expects from younger-vine Garnacha. The hot Catalan sun and the Priorat’s slate-rich soils have gifted VdI with wonderfully focused fruit, and the winery’s young winemaker, Sylvia Puig, has succeeded in crafting a beautifully balanced and executed wine.
So if you’re looking for a gift for that lover of epic Greek poetry, or perhaps that friend who just can’t live without some northern Spanish red, this is the wine for you. Just one sip of this and you’ll have all the strength you need to sail the “wine-dark sea” and slay Trojans.
J.
Tags: akyles, garnacha, greece, odysseus, priorat, spain, sylvia puig, vinedos de ithaca
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posted on 24 April 2009 by jeff
Merlot is a misunderstood grape. Dan correctly attributed much of this to the influence of the hell-spawned Hollywood film, Sideways; a film which is also rumored to have tipped the mob off to the whereabouts of Lowell Mather, (make note: Wings jokes=rock bottom). As devastating as the film was for Merlot, I think it’s important to note that California was doing a bang-up job of strangling the grape long before Hollywood shanked it in the back.
All that said, smart consumers can find killer California Merlot if they choose the right growing area. Cooler temperatures, clay-based soils, and higher altitudes breed ripe, strongly structured Merlot. Lake County, north of Napa, offers all of these.
The 2004 reserve bottling of Merlot from Wildhurst Vineyards, located on the north side of Clear Lake, is a prime example of Lake County’s Merlot pedigree. The wine is hued a reddish-purple and has a surprisingly dark, and earthy aroma. Though the fruit is ripe, this is definitely a wine whose big, broad tannins suggest Merlot’s over-looked capacity for depth and structure. About forty-five minutes after opening, a delightful undertone of chewy cedar begins to surface. And though it’s a bit light in the finish, the slightly loamy, bitter-chocolate end notes are not only pleasant, but a refreshing alternative to the ever present viscosity that has so degraded Merlot’s reputation.
At $15 this wine is not life-changing. It is, however, more than worth it’s price tag. Moreover, this is not a “Merlot” drinker’s Merlot, it’s a wine drinker’s Merlot. For all it brings plenty of enjoyable fruit to the table, this wine’s focus and balance are what keep it compelling.
J.
Tags: bordeaux, California, dan, lake county, lowell mather, merlot, Napa, paul giamatti, sideways, wall st. journal, wildhurst, wretched
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