posted on 26 June 2009 by tony
Alright. I’m pretty late writing about this, but in my defense, I’m a very busy man. Here goes.
About two weeks ago, I was on vacation in California. While I spent most of my trip in San Francisco, I did managed to get down to Santa Cruz for about a day and half. My partner in crime and I took this opportunity to visit the Bonny Doon production facility for a VIP tasting and a few brief lessons on biodynamic wine production. During the two or so hours of the visit, we were assisted by three highly knowledgeable tasters: Genevieve, with 2 years behind the bar, Leela, who packed 5 years of experience and Cameron, who also kept it real with 2 years. Armed with nearly ten years of tasting knowledge, we dove into the Bonny Doon portfolio. These are the wines we tasted:
2004 Le Cigare Volant
2007 Le Cigare Volant (which had been bottled only the day before)
2007 Le Cigare Blanc
2008 Vin Gris De Cigare
2008 Ca’Del Solo Albarino
Ca’Del Solo Sangiovese (unknown vintage)
2008 Ca’Del Solo Muscat
2006 Ca’Del Solo Dolcetto
2005 Ca’Del Solo Nebbiolo
Then they broke out the interesting bottlings they do only for their Wine Club members.
2005 Bien Nacido Syrah
2005 Syrah Le Posseur
2006 Syrah Cuvee Splendide
2007 Ca’Del Solo Orange Muscat (my favorite)
2007 Angel Paille
The Vinferno (unknown vintage)
I also got to taste a brandy Bonny Doon used to make but no longer produces. Delicious.
I’m not going to lie here guys, I didn’t take any tasting notes. I was just soaking up the vino and the stories that the tasters were telling. For me though, this wasn’t really all about the wine, but the experience as well. The tasting room at Bonny Doon is gorgeous, the staff is friendly and the wine is great. I would say if ever you’re in Santa Cruz, head down there and check it out. I know that I will be there again next time I’m in town.
-Out.
Tags: Bonny Doon, California, Red Wine, white wine
Category: The Wine Blog | Comments (3)
posted on 12 June 2009 by jeff
Diet Merlot anyone?
A few weeks ago the Times (UK) published a story about the proliferation of aluminum cans in the wine world. Wine can sales are on the rise, and moreover, the can-makers are predicting huge growth. Let me be the first, (forgetting all of the can industry people who said this before me) to say that I am all about this development. Single servings of wine in a can? How could this not be awesome?!
A lot has changed in the wine packaging world recently. Stelvin closures, glass closures and man’s-most-useless closures, (synthetic corks for you uninitiated) are everywhere. Moreover, we’re all familiar by now with the “premium wine cask,” (that’s what complete idiots call a cardboard box). With the exception of shamefully-stupid synthetic corks, these are all pretty useful ideas. They don’t really hurt the wines they secure, and they offer consumers with options: consumers love options.
But none of these have anywhere near the potential of can-wine. Part of
Bikinis and beer cans we've seen, but how about bikinis and cans of burgundy?
what is so awesome about beer is that you can have just one. You’re always free to have more, or less, of your current beverage. You can’t do that with wine. Sure, you can go to a restaurant and order a glass of wine, but you’re paying a whole lot more for that wine because the restaurant now has a whole bottle that they may, or may not, be able to use. Boxed wines have partially solved this issue, but a single-serving packaging format has the potential to make wine into the kind of truly broad spectrum, mass-appeal beverage that beer is.
If canned wine is to succeed, it will have to first pass muster with retailers and restaurateurs. Assuredly there will be some backlash from some members of the wine community. Wine is something of a mysterious world, and those of us who live in it professionally can sometimes be a bit overzealous in safeguarding it’s secrets against those we fear might corrupt, or subvert it. In reality, however, canned wine will never be capable of assaulting the lofty heights of wine’s ivory tower.
Much like boxed wine, these cans will be filled with simple, drinking wines. They’ll not be age-worthy, nor will many of them be worthy of serious discussion. That doesn’t mean that none of them will be worth drinking. If you can find something as like-able as Alandra in a box, you’ll almost certainly be able to find equally tasty wines in cans before long. Let’s be clear, I’ll kick the first fellow who attempts to put St. Julien in a can squarely in his marbles, and I’ll insult his mother for good measure while he’s rolling about on the floor. But, if someone fills a can with a delightfully crisp and refreshing Sauvignon Blanc, I’ll buy the very first 6-pack. That is a promise.
J.
Tags: alandra, boxed wine, cans, marbles, premium wine cask, sauvignon blanc, synthetic cork
Category: The Wine Blog | Comments (1)
posted on 6 June 2009 by jeff
Inexpensive sparkling wine imports, namely Prosecco and Cava, have received a lot of press in the last 18 months. Hoping to relate to a hipper crowd, media outlets like the Wall Street Journal have been frantically trying to place themselves on the cutting-edge of wine consumption: five years too late. I love Prosecco, and I love Cava too. But I’d like to suggest a couple of sparkling options you might not have encountered yet that tend to be just as affordable and equally compelling.
Odd Aussies
Australian wine makers are courageous; they will try things that producers from older regions would never attempt, for fear of breaking tradition. De Bortoli’s new line of sparklers is a perfect example of this. Named Emeri for a family matriarch, the line includes a sparkling Sauvignon Blanc. Fresh, herbaceous, lime fruit and a well-balanced effervescence make this the coolest beach wine anywhere.
Emeri de Bortoli Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc: $12.99
Sekt
Few have ever been accused of associating the Germans with jollity. That being said, and evening spent with their native sparkler, Sekt, is almost always delightful. Most Sekt producers us the Italian Charmat method to craft their wines, which gives Sekt the same refreshingly volatile carbonation that Prosecco displays. Henkell’s trocken Sekt contains more residual sugar and adds a layer of richness to the sharp dryness of brut Sekt.
Henkell Trocken Brut Sekt: $15.99
Loire Valley
The Loire never fails to supply drinkers with delicious, and affordable, wines. Remy Pannier is a Loire stalwart, and a substantial portion of their yearly production is devoted to their Marquis de la Tour sparkler. Composed largely of Chenin Blanc, this bubbly definitely exemplifies Chenin’s deliciously crisp and dry, fruitiness.
Marquis de la Tour Brut: $11.99
J.
Tags: cava, Chenin Blanc, emeri de bortoli, henkell, Loire, marquis de la tour, prosecco, remy-pannier, sauvignon blanc, sekt, sparkling wine, wall street journal
Category: The Wine Blog | Comments (0)
posted on 4 June 2009 by jeff
Boxed wines are the wine world’s proverbial whipping boys. While nobody likes to admit that they drink the vino equivalent of, say, Wal-Mart bulk-packaged briefs, it’s clear that a whole lot of people are buying boxed wines. According to Nielsen, sales of “premium wine casks,” a term for boxed wine invented by morons, exploded in 2007 to the tune of 50% growth. The last three months of 2008 saw another 30% increase in sales. This kind of growth means that even fine wine retailers must now begin to take boxed wines seriously.
It’s doubtful, however, that many high end shops are going to simply buy up vast quantities of Franzia. Wines of that ilk are what gave boxed wine such a poor reputation in the first place. A higher quality option is required. Accordingly, many producers are rushing to fill this need for quality square-shaped wine. And it’s not only new world producers who are getting in on this game.; wine makers from all over Europe are beginning to grasp the potential of this new market.
Europeans have been consuming simple, everyday-drinking wines for centuries, and boxed wines are designed to fulfill this selfsame purpose. Until now, “premium wine casks” have been filled with mass-produced, poorly-developed swill. Many of the new imported boxes, however, carry wines that resemble the delicious and oftentimes anonymous carafe wines found in so many European cafes. One of my new favorites is a Portuguese wine called Alandra. At $17.99 (that’s $4.50 a bottle folks) it’s an awesome value, but what’s more, it’s offers a delicious balance of simplicity and likeability. Whether it’s nestled in your fridge, or held above your head by your drunken friend Bill, Alandra is a wine that won’t make you feel ashamed of it’s square packaging.
J.
Tags: alandra, box wine, franzia, nielsen, portuguese, premium wine cask, wal-mart
Category: The Wine Blog | Comments (2)
posted on 23 April 2009 by jeff
I would like to rant for a moment about the state of wine production in my beloved home state of New York. Allow me to be very clear: New York is capable of producing serious wine. Varietals like Cabernet Franc and Riesling can excel there if treated properly. Too few New York wines, however, are crafted with the kind of care and attention that fine wine requires. Upstate New Yorkers are the last survivors of the sweet wine movement in America. Long after, “wines” made by producers like Mogen David stopped being drunk in quantity outside of New York, New Yorkers continue to consume vast quantities of saccharine, tooth-rotting, juice-wine.
I have no desire to make judgements about what my people consume. If they wish keep drinking these juice-wines then I am down: it’s their prerogative. The problem here is the lazy attitude that the Upstater’s love for juice-wine breeds in New York winemakers. Rather than push themselves to craft authentic, and compelling expressions of New York terroir and New York fruit, they’ve chosen to walk the path of least resistance. Don’t get me wrong; a couple of juice-wines in a New York winemaker’s portfolio is cool, but the goal should be to produce wines of complexity and depth, not readily-swilled foolishness.
Thank you for listening.
J.
Tags: cabernet franc, juice-wine, mogen david, New York, riesling, upstate
Category: The Wine Blog | Comments (0)
