posted on 19 May 2009 by jeff
American Syrah is not an easy wine-category to sell these days. Many Americans are confused about what exactly Syrah is. They’ve heard it’s the same grape as is used in Aussie Shiraz, but it doesn’t taste like the 90-some-odd point blueberry milkshakes they’ve had foisted upon them by some jamoke from Kappy’s. Furthermore, Californian Syrah runs the gamut from powerful and aromatic Rhone-style wines, to emulations of the melted-jam wines so favored by suburban, banker types.
California’s inability to precisely define it’s feelings regarding Syrah is no reason, however, to abandon the varietal. There are plenty of great Syrah’s to be had for just about any price. At around $15, the Shannon Ridge Winery’s take on the southern french grape is an absolute steal.
Grown in Lake County, the Shannon Ridge vines benefit from steeply sloped vineyards and steady, cooling, winds off of Clear Lake. The wine pours an intense garnet-red, a bit reminiscent of bottlings from the Northern Rhone. This is echoed by a hint of bacon fat in the nose, but aromas of chocolate and black fruit definitely suggest the wine’s California roots. The wine has a densely-thatched palate of blackberry and cocoa coupled with a warm undertone of caramelized sugar. Straightforward tannins and a bright, fresh-faced acidity make this a killer red for the summer time. I recommend acquiring some Redbones and finding a spot to watch the sun go down.
J.
Tags: blueberry milkshakes, California, jamoke, kappy's, lake county, shannon ridge, shiraz, syrah
Category: Wine Reviews | Comments (0)
posted on 23 March 2009 by jeff
Terry Hoage is a large man. Terry Hoage is not large like other men are large; he is the special kind of huge only seen in those born to be professional athletes. There is a menacing quality to his size, a reminder that he once made his living assaulting equally large men. A former All-American and Super Bowl champion, Mr. Hoage patrolled the defensive backfield for a number of teams over 13 NFL seasons. I was, therefore, more than a little bit surprised when I heard that he would be stopping by the shop to promote his Paso Robles winery.
What was more surprising was the overwhelming quality of Mr. Hoage’s wines. Using Rhone varietals, the College Football Hall of Famer manages to suggest the spicy depth of the eponymous river valley while expressing the intensity of Paso Robles. As with the mountain-grown Garnacha of northern Spain, Paso’s hot days and cool nights definitely produce a focused structure in Hoage’s Grenache, named “Skins” for his former employers the Washington Redskins. Hoage’s blackberry and violet-laden Syrah benefits from the the vineyard’s calcerous soil, which retains moisture and promotes later ripening and development of the grape. Ultimately, what is most notable about all of Mr. Hoage’s wines is the care with which he cultivates and produces them.
None of the Hoage wines can be construed as cheap. The hand-crafted character of the wines coupled with a tiny production volume means these are special occasion purchases for most wine buyers. That being said, when that special occasion does arise, keep these wines in mind, you will not be disappointed.
J.
Tags: all-american, blackberry, calcerous, football, garnacha, grenache, nfl, paso robles, rhone, syrah, terry hoage, violet, washington redskins
Category: The Wine Blog | Comments (0)
