Wildhurst Merlot 2004

Merlot is a misunderstood grape.  Dan correctly attributed much of this to the influence of the hell-spawned Hollywood film, Sideways; a film which is also rumored to have tipped the mob off to the whereabouts of Lowell Mather, (make note: Wings jokes=rock bottom).  As devastating as the film was for Merlot, I think it’s important to note that California was doing a bang-up job of strangling the grape long before Hollywood shanked it in the back.

All that said, smart consumers can find killer California Merlot if they choose the right growing area.  Cooler temperatures, clay-based soils, and higher altitudes breed ripe, strongly structured Merlot.  Lake County, north of Napa, offers all of these.

The 2004 reserve bottling of Merlot from Wildhurst Vineyards, located on the north side of Clear Lake, is a prime example of Lake County’s Merlot pedigree.  The wine is hued a reddish-purple and has a surprisingly dark, and earthy aroma.  Though the fruit is ripe, this is definitely a wine whose big, broad tannins suggest Merlot’s over-looked capacity for depth and structure.  About forty-five minutes after opening, a delightful undertone of chewy cedar begins to surface.  And though it’s a bit light in the finish, the slightly loamy, bitter-chocolate end notes are not only pleasant, but a refreshing alternative to the ever present viscosity that has so degraded Merlot’s reputation.

At $15 this wine is not life-changing.  It is, however, more than worth it’s price tag.  Moreover, this is not a “Merlot” drinker’s Merlot, it’s a wine drinker’s Merlot.  For all it brings plenty of enjoyable fruit to the table, this wine’s focus and balance are what keep it compelling.

J.

Tags: bordeaux, California, dan, lake county, lowell mather, merlot, Napa, paul giamatti, sideways, wall st. journal, wildhurst, wretched
Category: Wine Reviews | Comments (1)

Girl on Cab & Merlot

I don’t like to lower my standards. I don’t want to buy store-brand ginger ale, I don’t want to ski on rocks, and I don’t want to use a plastic bag as a shower cap. I don’t use shower caps but it would be a sad day if I had to use a glad bag. BUT “lower” isn’t necessarily a bad word. Who doesn’t want to lower his or her cholesterol? Or find a lower interest rate? Or in the case of the Calvet Reserve 2006 Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon Bordeaux enjoy a wine with a lower tannin level.

Any single woman can tell you that no matter how many of your friends tell you the dude is great, shares your interest in harpsichord, unicorns, and also has a speech impediment; it’s not going to work out if you have to lower your standards. I can’t say that this Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon Bordeaux is Mr. Perfect, but it’s a not a mercy date either. It’s friendly, charming, smells good (no really, it has a nice nose) but you probably wouldn’t call it after three dates. It just doesn’t really deliver. Don’t feel badly, Cabernet Sauvignon’s have thick skins.

I read a few reviews of this Calvet online and one of the critics raved about its smooth texture. The quote reads, “The Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon has a lovely crimson color and is followed by a red-fruit bouquet set off to perfection by vanilla and a slight hint of menthol.” Pardon, did you say “menthol?” Like Halls Metho-Lyptus? No can do. I don’t recommend going out with guys described as “funny, bright, and has an amazing ability to produce phlegm.”

Tags: bordeaux, cabernet sauvignon, menthol, merlot, Mr. Perfect, red bordeaux, Sarah Osteen
Category: Girl on Grape | Comments (0)

Merlot: The Redheaded Stepchild

Poor, poor Merlot… 5 years ago, the movie Sideways took a fairly arbitrary stance against the noble grape (remember: Paul Giamatti hamming it up, screeching - literally screeching - about “not drinking any effing Merlot”). In the years since, Merlot’s garnered a reputation for being flabby, watered down, mass-produced… and Pinot Noir’s reputation, Giamatti’s obsession in the movie, skyrocketed. In 2009, we’re still feeling the cultural reverberation. The price of Pinot Noir has shot through the roof and Merlot racks collect dust in the dankest corner of wine stores.

Is it fair? Nope. Before the movie, it’s true, Merlot had been the casual drinker’s go-to for years and years, causing the larger production companies to churn out slop to meet demand. And that slop really wasn’t that great. Still isn’t that great. But, Merlot’s been around a long, long time (Bordeaux, anyone?) and it’s unfair to assume that all Merlot is created equal. If the cheap swill is still cheap swill, the finely crafted Merlots are still finely crafted Merlots.

And the world of critics is finally catching up. One would think being a wine critic implies a certain lack of bias and an open mind, but… well, the critics have been equally unfair. Until now. A few weeks back, Dorothy Gaiter and John Brecher, who write the Wall Street Journal’s immensely respected tasting column, blind tasted fifty bottles of Merlot. Reportedly, they entered with dread, but left pleasantly surprised. Yup. The bottles that surprised them included a bottle each of Charles Krug, Ravenswood, Simi… So, maybe we can expect a little more respect for Merlot in the future.

Here at dT, we’re not even close to surprised, pleasantly or otherwise. We’ve been drinking Merlot all along. If you want to check out some cool bottles, try the Wildhurst merlot, which goes for $15.99. Want to check out what we think about it? Read Jeff’s rant on it in our wine review section, Don’t Worry, I’ll Drink It For You.

Don’t pay attention to the media. Pay attention to your palette. And if there isn’t a single Merlot that you don’t like, don’t drink Merlot. But give it a chance. That’s all I ask.

dJp

Tags: merlot, paul giamatti, pinot noir, sideways, wall street journal
Category: The Wine Blog | Comments (0)