Wildhurst Merlot 2004

Merlot is a misunderstood grape.  Dan correctly attributed much of this to the influence of the hell-spawned Hollywood film, Sideways; a film which is also rumored to have tipped the mob off to the whereabouts of Lowell Mather, (make note: Wings jokes=rock bottom).  As devastating as the film was for Merlot, I think it’s important to note that California was doing a bang-up job of strangling the grape long before Hollywood shanked it in the back.

All that said, smart consumers can find killer California Merlot if they choose the right growing area.  Cooler temperatures, clay-based soils, and higher altitudes breed ripe, strongly structured Merlot.  Lake County, north of Napa, offers all of these.

The 2004 reserve bottling of Merlot from Wildhurst Vineyards, located on the north side of Clear Lake, is a prime example of Lake County’s Merlot pedigree.  The wine is hued a reddish-purple and has a surprisingly dark, and earthy aroma.  Though the fruit is ripe, this is definitely a wine whose big, broad tannins suggest Merlot’s over-looked capacity for depth and structure.  About forty-five minutes after opening, a delightful undertone of chewy cedar begins to surface.  And though it’s a bit light in the finish, the slightly loamy, bitter-chocolate end notes are not only pleasant, but a refreshing alternative to the ever present viscosity that has so degraded Merlot’s reputation.

At $15 this wine is not life-changing.  It is, however, more than worth it’s price tag.  Moreover, this is not a “Merlot” drinker’s Merlot, it’s a wine drinker’s Merlot.  For all it brings plenty of enjoyable fruit to the table, this wine’s focus and balance are what keep it compelling.

J.

Tags: bordeaux, California, dan, lake county, lowell mather, merlot, Napa, paul giamatti, sideways, wall st. journal, wildhurst, wretched
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