posted on 24 April 2009 by jeff
Merlot is a misunderstood grape. Dan correctly attributed much of this to the influence of the hell-spawned Hollywood film, Sideways; a film which is also rumored to have tipped the mob off to the whereabouts of Lowell Mather, (make note: Wings jokes=rock bottom). As devastating as the film was for Merlot, I think it’s important to note that California was doing a bang-up job of strangling the grape long before Hollywood shanked it in the back.
All that said, smart consumers can find killer California Merlot if they choose the right growing area. Cooler temperatures, clay-based soils, and higher altitudes breed ripe, strongly structured Merlot. Lake County, north of Napa, offers all of these.
The 2004 reserve bottling of Merlot from Wildhurst Vineyards, located on the north side of Clear Lake, is a prime example of Lake County’s Merlot pedigree. The wine is hued a reddish-purple and has a surprisingly dark, and earthy aroma. Though the fruit is ripe, this is definitely a wine whose big, broad tannins suggest Merlot’s over-looked capacity for depth and structure. About forty-five minutes after opening, a delightful undertone of chewy cedar begins to surface. And though it’s a bit light in the finish, the slightly loamy, bitter-chocolate end notes are not only pleasant, but a refreshing alternative to the ever present viscosity that has so degraded Merlot’s reputation.
At $15 this wine is not life-changing. It is, however, more than worth it’s price tag. Moreover, this is not a “Merlot” drinker’s Merlot, it’s a wine drinker’s Merlot. For all it brings plenty of enjoyable fruit to the table, this wine’s focus and balance are what keep it compelling.
J.
Tags: bordeaux, California, dan, lake county, lowell mather, merlot, Napa, paul giamatti, sideways, wall st. journal, wildhurst, wretched
Category: Wine Reviews | Comments (1)
posted on 1 April 2009 by sarah
I don’t like to lower my standards. I don’t want to buy store-brand ginger ale, I don’t want to ski on rocks, and I don’t want to use a plastic bag as a shower cap. I don’t use shower caps but it would be a sad day if I had to use a glad bag. BUT “lower” isn’t necessarily a bad word. Who doesn’t want to lower his or her cholesterol? Or find a lower interest rate? Or in the case of the Calvet Reserve 2006 Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon Bordeaux enjoy a wine with a lower tannin level.
Any single woman can tell you that no matter how many of your friends tell you the dude is great, shares your interest in harpsichord, unicorns, and also has a speech impediment; it’s not going to work out if you have to lower your standards. I can’t say that this Merlot Cabernet Sauvignon Bordeaux is Mr. Perfect, but it’s a not a mercy date either. It’s friendly, charming, smells good (no really, it has a nice nose) but you probably wouldn’t call it after three dates. It just doesn’t really deliver. Don’t feel badly, Cabernet Sauvignon’s have thick skins.
I read a few reviews of this Calvet online and one of the critics raved about its smooth texture. The quote reads, “The Merlot-Cabernet Sauvignon has a lovely crimson color and is followed by a red-fruit bouquet set off to perfection by vanilla and a slight hint of menthol.” Pardon, did you say “menthol?” Like Halls Metho-Lyptus? No can do. I don’t recommend going out with guys described as “funny, bright, and has an amazing ability to produce phlegm.”
Tags: bordeaux, cabernet sauvignon, menthol, merlot, Mr. Perfect, red bordeaux, Sarah Osteen
Category: Girl on Grape | Comments (0)
posted on 26 March 2009 by sarah
Nick Nolte may have the most memorable train-wreck of a mug shot but my favorite is Bernie Madoff who managed to sustain that uniquely smarmy semblance of a smile prior to being led to his stylish new Manhattan holding cell. You gotta hand it to this guy for deceiving hundreds of educated and well-informed investors, all-the-while knowing that he would eventually get caught. His reckless disregard for the law and ethics is worthy of some sort of financial Oscar, or at least an Emmy.
The 2007 Chateau Haut Lavigne is neither unethical nor the cause of life-long financial distress. But this Sauvignon Blanc Semillon blazes a trail for its deception. The wine starts off like a typical sauvignon blanc, a friendly white I would recommend with appetizers. Suddenly mid-sip this wine turns into some kind of champagne-esque white. That’s right; this wine is running a FONZIE SCHEME on me!
You know The Fonz, the 5’6’’ all-American garage mechanic heartthrob who depicted life in the 50s through some sort of bizarre 70s and 80s lens? Much like Dirty Dancing (took place in early 60s, filmed in full 80s cheese) Happy Days was a myriad of contradictions, just like Bernie. If only Arthur Herbert Fonzarelli could have spoken with Bernie Madeoff, maybe he could have taught him a few things. “Hey, you wanna satisfy the expectations of high returns promised to clients? “Aaaayhh!”
So back to our friend Chateau Haut Lavigne, this is a great cocktail or celebratory wine. I wouldn’t commit all my assets or courses to it but mixed into an evening of whites its complexity and mineral tastes will be sure to raise some eye-brows.
-Sarah Osteen, not a crook
Tags: bordeaux, france, French, French white, Sarah Osteen, White Bordeaux, white wine
Category: Girl on Grape | Comments (0)
posted on 17 March 2009 by jeff
South America is currently as hot as any wine-producing region on Earth. Every store’s shelves are stocked with nearly as many bottles from Mendoza and Colchagua as from Napa and Bordeaux. Wine buyers who were a few years ago incapable of locating the Andes mountains on a map, now sing the praises of mountain-grown Malbec. This posting is, accordingly, an obvious attempt to capitalize on the overwhelming popularity these wine have achieved.
Yali’s Cabernet Sauvignon/Carmenere blend is an admirable addition to the the aforementioned acceleration of Chile’s international acclaim, (how’s that for alliteration). At under $12, it fits with South America’s reputation as a price-conscious shopper’s dream. Additionally, it’s not a wine which one fill find in many places, and so should succeed in satisfying even the most well-informed boozehound.
In the glass the wine is clear, cranberry-tinged, ruby color. The nose suggests a spiced, cooked fruit aroma.
Though there is a lot of fruit on the palate of this wine, it is not necessarily the fruit I was expecting. There is a distinct red-berry tartness in this wine which I don’t immediately associate with either of the present grapes. This is not unpleasant. In point of fact, this wine is refreshingly fun; it definitely falls into the, “drink me now, drink me often” category. I suspect it will be excellent out-of-doors come summer.
I recommend grabbing this wine on a weeknight when you’re not sure what’s for dinner and you don’t care. This is a wine that works when you want something you can drink until it’s gone. Pick the right sunny day, and this will be perfect on a picnic with your significant other, (or that picture of Blanche from the Golden Girls that Tony carts around with him).
Tags: blanche, bordeaux, cabernet sauvignon, carmenere, chile, colchagua, malbec, mendoza, Napa, tony
Category: Wine Reviews | Comments (0)
