About two weeks ago, I was on vacation in California.  While I spent most of my trip in San Francisco, I did managed to get down to Santa Cruz for about a day and half. My partner in crime and I took this opportunity to visit the Bonny Doon production facility for a VIP tasting and a few brief lessons on biodynamic wine production. During the two or so hours of the visit, we were assisted by three highly knowledgeable tasters: Genevieve, with 2 years behind the bar, Leela, who packed 5 years of experience and Cameron, who also kept it real with 2 years. Armed with nearly ten years of tasting knowledge, we dove into the Bonny Doon portfolio.  These are the wines we tasted:

2004 Le Cigare Volant
2007 Le Cigare Volant (which had been bottled only the day before)
2007 Le Cigare Blanc
2008 Vin Gris De Cigare
2008 Ca’Del Solo Albarino
Ca’Del Solo Sangiovese (unknown vintage)
2008 Ca’Del Solo Muscat
2006 Ca’Del Solo Dolcetto
2005 Ca’Del Solo Nebbiolo

Then they broke out the interesting bottlings they do only for their Wine Club members.

2005 Bien Nacido Syrah
2005 Syrah Le Posseur
2006 Syrah Cuvee Splendide
2007 Ca’Del Solo Orange Muscat (my favorite)
2007 Angel Paille
The Vinferno (unknown vintage)

I also got to taste a brandy Bonny Doon used to make but no longer produces. Delicious.

I’m not going to lie here guys, I didn’t take any tasting notes.  I was just soaking up the vino and the stories that the tasters were telling.  For me though, this wasn’t really all about the wine, but the experience as well.  The tasting room at Bonny Doon is gorgeous, the staff is friendly and the wine is great.  I would say if ever you’re in Santa Cruz, head down there and check it out.  I know that I will be there again next time I’m in town.

-Out.

This week’s wine is a sparkling wine from Patagonia made by the winery Familia Schroeder. The name of the wine line is Saurus – named after the Titanosaur bones that were unearthed during the construction of the winery. The Titanosaur was one of the largest species ever known. The bones are featured in a special cellar on site at the winery.

The wine is 60% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir and produced using the Charmat method wine. It tastes leafy and peachy to me. It is fresh, has a good acidity, and a touch of sweetness. We had no problem drinking it.

My partner in crime for enjoying this bottle used the Napoleon method for opening the bottle - le sabrage. Traditionally this is done with a sword. We used a kitchen knife. This is a great party trick- you can learn to do this too

Though Limnos has a reputation for making dry wines from it’s Moscatel, a result of the cooler temperatures, the island’s sweet wines are equally compelling.  The entry-level dessert wine from Limnos Wines, located in the capital of Myrina, is an outstanding introduction to the island’s wines.

In the glass the wine is a lambent, honeyed-orange.  Aromas of thyme, honey, and green Darjeeling abound.  The palate leads with earthy tones of spiced-honey and herbed-tea, though it finishes with a surprisingly refreshing hint of honeydew melon.

I really love this wine.  On top of being flat-out delicious, it is impressively complex given it’s $15.99 price tag.  Whether you’re hankering for something sweet, or looking to try something Greek, this wine is a fantastic way to spend an evening.  Pair it with some loukamathes and you’ll have everything you need to feel as though you been transported to the Greek isles, if only for an evening.

J.

Diet Merlot anyone?

A few weeks ago the Times (UK) published a story about the proliferation of aluminum cans in the wine world.  Wine can sales are on the rise, and moreover, the can-makers are predicting huge growth.  Let me be the first, (forgetting all of the can industry people who said this before me) to say that I am all about this development.  Single servings of wine in a can?  How could this not be awesome?!

A lot has changed in the wine packaging world recently.  Stelvin closures, glass closures and man’s-most-useless closures, (synthetic corks for you uninitiated) are everywhere.  Moreover, we’re all familiar by now with the “premium wine cask,” (that’s what complete idiots call a cardboard box).  With the exception of shamefully-stupid synthetic corks, these are all pretty useful ideas.  They don’t really hurt the wines they secure, and they offer consumers with options: consumers love options.

But none of these have anywhere near the potential of can-wine.  Part of

Bikinis and beer cans we've seen, but how about bikinis and cans of burgundy?

what is so awesome about beer is that you can have just one.  You’re always free to have more, or less, of your current beverage.  You can’t do that with wine.  Sure, you can go to a restaurant and order a glass of wine, but you’re paying a whole lot more for that wine because the restaurant now has a whole bottle that they may, or may not, be able to use.  Boxed wines have partially solved this issue, but a single-serving packaging format has the potential to make wine into the kind of truly broad spectrum, mass-appeal beverage that beer is.

If canned wine is to succeed, it will have to first pass muster with retailers and restaurateurs.  Assuredly there will be some backlash from some members of the wine community.  Wine is something of a mysterious world, and those of us who live in it professionally can sometimes be a bit overzealous in safeguarding it’s secrets against those we fear might corrupt, or subvert it.  In reality, however, canned wine will never be capable of assaulting the lofty heights of wine’s ivory tower.

Much like boxed wine, these cans will be filled with simple, drinking wines.  They’ll not be age-worthy, nor will many of them be worthy of serious discussion.  That doesn’t mean that none of them will be worth drinking.  If you can find something as like-able as Alandra in a box, you’ll almost certainly be able to find equally tasty wines in cans before long.  Let’s be clear, I’ll kick the first fellow who attempts to put St. Julien in a can squarely in his marbles, and I’ll insult his mother for good measure while he’s rolling about on the floor.  But, if someone fills a can with a delightfully crisp and refreshing Sauvignon Blanc, I’ll buy the very first 6-pack.  That is a promise.

J.

Odd Aussies

Australian wine makers are courageous; they will try things that producers from older regions would never attempt, for fear of breaking tradition.  De Bortoli’s new line of sparklers is a perfect example of this.  Named Emeri for a family matriarch, the line includes a sparkling Sauvignon Blanc.  Fresh, herbaceous, lime fruit and a well-balanced effervescence make this the coolest beach wine anywhere.

Emeri de Bortoli Sparkling Sauvignon Blanc: $12.99

Sekt

Few have ever been accused of associating the Germans with jollity.  That being said, and evening spent with their native sparkler, Sekt, is almost always delightful.  Most Sekt producers us the Italian Charmat method to craft their wines, which gives Sekt the same refreshingly volatile carbonation that Prosecco displays.  Henkell’s trocken Sekt contains more residual sugar and adds a layer of richness to the sharp dryness of brut Sekt.

Henkell Trocken Brut Sekt: $15.99

Loire Valley

The Loire never fails to supply drinkers with delicious, and affordable, wines.  Remy Pannier is a Loire stalwart, and a substantial portion of their yearly production is devoted to their Marquis de la Tour sparkler.  Composed largely of Chenin Blanc, this bubbly definitely exemplifies Chenin’s deliciously crisp and dry, fruitiness.

Marquis de la Tour Brut: $11.99

J.

Located at the foot of Arrowhead mountain, the Rhinefarm vineyard offers cool temperatures and an abundance of loamy, clay soil: a solid foundation for pinot noir. In the glass the wine has an earthy, garnet hue. Warm, ripe, red fruit aromas are balanced by a leafy earthiness. The relatively cool temperatures of the Rhinefarm, however, allow for a much more evenly balanced profile than the weighty juiciness of the nose suggests. A slightly sour palate of bright raspberry is offset against a delicately-expressed woodiness. Solidly structured and possessed of a driving acidity, this is the rare California pinot that doesn’t fall flat on it’s face when paired with a meal.

At $35, this wine doesn’t come super-cheap. That being said, it actually offers a pretty fair value when viewed against the plethora of over-priced, post-Sideways pinots. Moreover, the guys from G-B have always been pretty cool. The Sonoma Valley stalwarts once hijacked Richard Branson’s bus while he was touring Napa wineries. That bit of awesomeness is worth the price of admission all on its own.

J.

It’s doubtful, however, that many high end shops are going to simply buy up vast quantities of Franzia.  Wines of that ilk are what gave boxed wine such a poor reputation in the first place.  A higher quality option is required.  Accordingly, many producers are rushing to fill this need for quality square-shaped wine.  And it’s not only new world producers who are getting in on this game.; wine makers from all over Europe are beginning to grasp the potential of this new market.

Europeans have been consuming simple, everyday-drinking wines for centuries, and boxed wines are designed to fulfill this selfsame purpose.  Until now, “premium wine casks” have been filled with mass-produced, poorly-developed swill.  Many of the new imported boxes, however, carry wines that resemble the delicious and oftentimes anonymous carafe wines found in so many European cafes.  One of my new favorites is a Portuguese wine called Alandra.  At $17.99 (that’s $4.50 a bottle folks)  it’s an awesome value, but what’s more, it’s offers a delicious balance of simplicity and likeability.  Whether it’s nestled in your fridge, or held above your head by your drunken friend Bill, Alandra is a wine that won’t make you feel ashamed of it’s square packaging.

J.

When I was 14 my mother lost her wedding ring at the beach. We did what all people do when they lose jewelry on the beach; we rented metal detectors. Within hours I was sweeping the beach with a tool that resembled a light saber crossed with a cane: not a great accessory for an angst ridden teenager. What was worse was that I was suddenly one of “those” people, folks so miserly that they spend their day looking for hidden jewels while developing scoliosis in the process. Amazingly, we found the ring along with a number of razors and tin cans. Each time the detector (brand name “The Barracuda”) buzzed, fellow collectors would pop their heads up with a scowl to see if we had skeeched something good. I had a permanent eye roll the whole way home.

While most misers leave me with a bad taste in my mouth, this weekend I stumbled across a miser that I love: the Yalumba Bush Vine Grenache 2007. Miser wine? Yes. Grenache is a serious worker bee in its early years; the vines produce multiple bottles of wine per bush, but as the vines age over 25 years, they turn into nasty and selfish little squirrels producing barely one bottle per bush. I can almost imagine these old bushes out with their Barracudas giving bad tips to their waiters. While not particularly giving, the old vines produce a high quality grape. This Yalumba wine comes from grapes that have been aged 30-70 years: crotchety yet delicious.

Perhaps I am not that familiar with Grenache because it is always overshadowed by other Rhone varietals. The funny thing is that this is the most planted red grape variety in the world; it’s just that it is usually blended with other reds.

I like this red for summer because it is fruity and light but not thin like a disappointing pinot noir for example. One could pair this old magpie with almost anything, a tuna steak on the grill or bbq chicken would be a good bet. I was really blown away by this wine and will be drinking it a lot this summer. At $15.99 you don’t even have to spend an extra hour on the beach looking for spare change to buy it.

It would be nice if life was a musical. I would like for people to surprise me from upstairs window sills singing about the beauty of the morning or for folks waiting at the bus stop in Porter Square to move in synchronized jazz squares on the side walk. I realize that this is an unrealistic dream, but sometimes I wonder if life can mimic fantasy when I watch Giada De Laurentis - Italian American chef, writer, television personality, and the current host of the Food Network programs Everyday Italian. While Giada moves smoothly around the kitchen playfully sampling and dipping, soft music filters through and the lighting is reminiscent of soft porn. The food seems to take on a sensual life of its own and she almost flirts with the viewer –cut to close up of her mouth while she chews. I would like to look like that when I am in the kitchen but sadly I am more of a putterer.

While this week’s wine is neither Italian nor voluptuous, it does make me feel airy and inspires romance. The Triennes rosé is from Provence and made mainly from Cinsault grapes. I like this rosé because it is delicious and bone-dry but also because it is not a by-product of red wine. It is created for its own sake and is the main wine produced in the region. It’s a soft salmon color because the grapes don’t have contact with the skins for longer than it takes to transport the grapes.

I drank this wine with seared scallops cooked with sage and fiddleheads. It tasted like the essence of spring with the hope of summer. I could almost picture myself as Sandy in a high school rendition of Grease strolling on the board walk with Danny…

California’s inability to precisely define it’s feelings regarding Syrah is no reason, however, to abandon the varietal.  There are plenty of great Syrah’s to be had for just about any price.  At around $15, the Shannon Ridge Winery’s take on the southern french grape is an absolute steal.

Grown in Lake County, the Shannon Ridge vines benefit from steeply sloped vineyards and steady, cooling, winds off of Clear Lake.  The wine pours an intense garnet-red, a bit reminiscent of bottlings from the Northern Rhone.  This is echoed by a hint of bacon fat in the nose, but aromas of chocolate and black fruit definitely suggest the wine’s California roots.  The wine has a densely-thatched palate of blackberry and cocoa coupled with a warm undertone of caramelized sugar.  Straightforward tannins and a bright, fresh-faced acidity make this a killer red for the summer time.  I recommend acquiring some Redbones and finding a spot to watch the sun go down.

J.